TVERS: From waste to material resources in a grave to cradle perspective: A stakeholder approach within the textile value chain.

The goal of the project was to reduce the environmental impact of textile consumption through a reverse lifecycle perspective. The starting point was on the use and disposal phases, to see how knowledge from these end phases can help to reduce the environ mental burden throughout the clothing life cycle. To get a better understanding of consumer practices, we decided to use interdisciplinary method triangulation that combined studies of material and behavioral aspects of clothing consumption. Material aspe cts were investigated through laboratory tests of washing and clothing characteristics, and through a method combination called wardrobe studies. Wardrobe studies were based on the clothes that went out of use from 16 households in the course of six month s. Behavioural aspects were investigated through in-depth interviews and quantitative consumer surveys. Consumers can make choices that reduce the environmental impacts in all consumption stages, including the acquisition, use, maintenance and disposal. Most important opportunity is to extend the garment lifespans through reduction in volumes and turnover. The main reason for clothing disposal was changes in appearance of the clothes, followed by problems related to size and fit, especially for women. Th e other main category with great potential for environmental improvements was the laundering, where habits have undergone rapid changes in the recent decade. We own far more clothing and wash them more often. Changing practices require a concurrence of d ifferent motivational conditions. All stages in clothing consumption will be affected by the design, either of specific products such as clothes, washing machines, dryers, or larger systems, infrastructures, regulations and services. To ensure a more envi ronmentally sustainable future further regulatory measures and economic incentives should be applied and enforced, in addition to voluntary incentives such as information provision. Changes must come in the form of better products and better systems. We have produced a number of articles and presentations, in addition to exhibition, seminar, and submitted a Ph.D. thesis in this project. For more information, see: http://www.nicefashion.org/ or http://www.sifo.no/page/Forskning//10060/75453.html.

The project is constructed in work packages. In the reverse life-cycle approach our point of departure is the two last phases in the production/consumption process: 1) the user-phase and 2) the recycling phase where waste is potentially transformed into r esources. We will use the results from these phases to unravel back to retailers and producers; and to involve four North European design schools in the innovation processes. Wp1 will start with public statistical data on waste, combined with stakeholde r interviews with the recycling industry and the local waste handling institutions. We will move backwards in the value chain and continue our stakeholder interviews with retailers, the textile industry, consumer organisations and public authorities. WP 2 will concentrate on consumers and households. The decision to turn clothes into waste is taken by individuals. We will follow a selected sample of households during a period of 12 months. They will collect all clothes taken out of use and separate them into different categories. WP3 will focus on two dimensions in the maintenance of clothes: the washing and drying process in households. The Norwegian chemical household industry represented by Lilleborg will participate in this part of the project. WP 4 will to look at historical experiences. Textiles have historically been very expensive and therefore had to be utilized in an economic way WP5 will add a European dimension to the project. We will make available our results to four design schools and i nvolve teachers and students in these schools in a creative work.. Their task is to build scenarios for textile consumption and to construct products in line with the identified challenges. WP6. The results will be a part of a small-scale exhibition and represents the creative input to work package six. This work packages will be constructed around working groups where designers will present their work for the textile industry and the recycling industry.